“Gender is a context and context is often gendered”

These were the words Miuccia Prada used herself to greet the audience and describe her Fall/Winter 2015 fashion collection, delivered during Milan fashion week. The Italian designer unabashedly recreated her now notable confusion of the sexes, intertwining the complexity of male silhouettes and female models on the catwalk.

With a cold, black and metallic atmosphere, a sterilized white light and a deep electronic Frédéric Sanchez’s soundtrack, a strict march of models following each other in nylon uniforms. Miuccia Prada showcased a range of tight but empowered bodies throughThe Infinite Palace.

From the side-buttoned tailored coats to the open back black dresses, she managed to reveal how complementary men and women are. Women, with ponytails and dark ribbons, bow tied belts and brown silk scarves. Men, wearing short-sleeved grey shirts, metallic glasses and black calf leather sneakers. The cross-gendered collection found its own balance between disparity and unity, mirroring sternness and smoothness.

Away from the signature “Saffiano” handbag, Prada’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection is about to mark a breakthrough with a checked pattern displayed over briefcases, one-handed medium bags and long mannish coats. This season, Prada’s desire to innovate becomes apparent: another subject under investigation.